I immediately felt an influx of energy when I took my first stroll on the beaches of Sanur. It’s a very familiar feeling to when I go to Tarifa in Spain. Driving down from Malaga it takes about 15 minutes and then the ocean appears. And everytime I can’t hold back a grin on my face.
I had planned to go to the coast after a month in Ubud, but wasn’t sure about which town. I checked out Canggu on the west coast first, but it didn’t appeal to me. Someone recommended Sanur on the south-east coast of the top part of the island. Bali is shaped like an upside down number 8.
Sanur is a very old tourist destination in Bali. It has a fast road that bends like the coast line. Between these two there is a slower main road and various cul-de-sacs and pathways to the beach. The sand is white and beaches are clean. Many of the bars and resorts take up space up to about 50% of the beach but there is plenty of space left.
Accomodation
There’s a lot of high class hotels that cater to the elderly tourists that come here. But you will also find lot’s of smaller accomodations (homestays, villas etc).
My plan was to stay in a different accomodation every week. This way I could gather the benefits of different locations. But it also meant moving once a week.
My first stop was at Rumah Samba. They have a shared dorm and two types of private rooms. I opted for the smaller of the private rooms which included a semi-outside bathroom. I have to admit I loved this place and briefly thought about extending my stay to the full month here.
My highlight at this place was the giant pool. The length is ideal for a swim workout. The staff are super friendly and Dewa is the driver on location that can take you on trips for a reasonable price.
This was the first and last accomodation in Sanur. Read more about that later.
Co-working
Kumpul coworking space is situated in a creative hub area of Sanur just off the main road on the second floor. The space is fully air conditioned with large tables, a large outside area and monitors for rent. Some of the tables are not perfectly flat, so a mouse pad is recommended. The office chairs are not premium ergonomic. But definitely better than average coffee house chairs.
What makes Kumpul special is the community. You feel welcome and a part of the group immediately. The people are mostly regulars. I have to admit I’m not sure how many travelling nomads were there. There are lot’s of events (film nights, fusbal [sic]) and often a group goes out for lunch.
Being online
My prepaid card from Ubud worked around town and even at the beach. Wifi at my accomodation was very good. Of course Kumpul had the fastest internet. While I was there it was stable and no outages.
Getting around
My trip to Sanur was with Uber but that was the last car I got into before I left. One of my favorite things about Sanur was that you can walk everyhere. The only exception is in the south. You can’t go much further than Pengembak beach. That’s where you would need a scooter or driver.
All shops, restaurants, warungs, ATMs are a 15 minute walk at most. Up north I walked for 2-3 hours the temple Pura Dalem Segara. There a large river flows into the ocean and blocks your way.
Things to do in Sanur
Even though my stay in Sanur was only short I explored most of the town. I ventured to the south to temple Pura Dalem Pengembak. Nearby is a beautiful swamp area and a new canal. The waterway has little picnic and resting huts along side which are great to just relax.
My longest walk was up north along the beach. It takes you past the harbor with ships to the nearby islands.
You get to see some large ruins some of which may also be art. Continuing until the path ends you arrive at a temple. It lies at the place where the river Jeh Ajung flows into the sea.
Of course this was only a fraction of what I had wanted to see.
…but then I broke my foot. Stay tuned.
Average costs
- Food: 8.000 IDR (cheapest lunch, Warung). Nasi goreng on average 40-50.000 IDR.
- Laundry: 8.000 IDR per kilo
- Accomodation: 2-3M IDR per week in Rumah Samba